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Sarah Burton's fourth collection for Alexander McQueen is her most feminine collection to date. But not without an edge. The Womenswear collection for Autumn/Winter 2012-13 is filled with flowing and soft materials coupled with metal edged shoes, accessories and eye shields.
Marabou Feathers, Mongolian lamb, mink accents and dense layers of organza and tulle in pale pinks, lavenders, taupe, mauve, grey, black, ivory, white and a vibrant fuschia make up the collection. Feathers, furs and silver dandelion and enamel blossom embroideries float on textured surfaces. Funnel necks, Mongolian lamb collars, trapeze lines, cape-backs and bell-shaped, rolled skirts dominate. Pale silk and mohair jacquards appliquéd with felt flowers give way to black and white laser-cut pony-skin over leather and hand-massaged printed, degradé silks and ruffled organzas.
Like one fierce fairytale, the models -with slicked back hair- were clad in shield-like eyewear that covered most of their faces as they donned ensembles that resembled a new species of organic flora.
Hammered metal harnessing (which resembles belts and jewelry) added a hard edge to the otherwise soft and flowing fabrics.
The silhouette becomes increasingly three-dimensional and overblown as the collection progresses. Shape, texture, print and embellishment explode, initially from the waist and finally from the neck down.
The entire Alexander McQueen Fall Winter 2012-2013 Womenswear Collection:
A video of the runway show: