If It's Hip, It's Here (Archives): museum exhibit

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Pap(i)er Fashion At The Museum Bellerive

The Pap(i)er Fashion Exhibition at the Museum Bellerive takes us through the fascinating history of paper clothes, beginning with the Swinging Sixties in America and, as the trend spread later, to Europe. The paper fashions reflected what was happening in art, politics and culture at the time; Pop Art and Op Art, Company logos, newspaper prints, and even the electoral candidates of 1968.

above: Ηarry Gordon, The Cat and The Rose, poster dresses, USA 1968. Photo: Panos Davios © ATOPOS collection

above: Baby Ruth and Butterfinger dresses, by MARS Manufacturing Company. © ATOPOS collection

above: Nixon, Eugene McCarthy, Romney, and Robert Kennedy election dresses in the exhibit. Photo by Betty Fleck, Studio Publikation, Zürcher Hochschule der Künste © ZHdK

The exhibit educates us on the approaches to using raw materials and textiles, garment manufacturing know-how, and the use of particularly innovative non-woven materials as well as paper-like materials.

Above left: Gouache on Yellow Pages Dress’ (USA, 1968) by Howard Hodgkin, 2010, for ATOPOS Cultural Organization, © the artist. Above right:"LET'S GO" A PAPER DRESS. Published by Lincoln Mercury (FORD MOTORS). © USA, 1969. ATOPOS Collection, Athens

Paper, which was invented in China in approximately 100 A.D., has been used to manufacture garments and accessories in various cultures in the past and also in many modern creations. The exhibition examines the use of paper in contemporary fashion practices through design, art, advertising, video, catwalk shows and the actual creations of some of the most innovative designers of our times including Paco Rabanne, Issey Miyake, Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld, Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, Akris.

Above: Paper floral headpieces created by Katsuya Kamo for Karl Lagerfeld's CHANEL Haute Couture S/S 2009 Collection, photos © CHANEL

Pap(i)er Fashion at Museum Bellerive, April 30 – August 1st 2010
pieces from the exhibit:

above: Harry Gordon, Uptown New York, poster dress, UK/USA 2007, poem by Allen Ginsberg, first edition. Photo: Panos Davios ©ATOPOS collection, Athens

above: Robert Wilson, Lisa, USA 2007, commissioned by ATOPOS. ©Robert Wilson and The Byrd Hoffman Watermill Foundation 2007, ATOPOS collection, Athens

above: Campbell’s Soup Company, The Souper Dress, after Warhol, USA 1968, launched for the promotion “Vegetable Soup”. Photo: Panos Davios ©ATOPOS collection, Athens

above: Universal Fashions, The Big Ones for 68, paper dress, USA 1968, Promotion paper dress with portraits of the Studios popular stars. Photo: Panos Davios ©ATOPOS collection, Athens

above: Harry Gordon, The Eye, poster dress, USA 1968. Photo: Panos Davios ©ATOPOS collection, Athens

above: Bob Dylan, Poster Dress, USA 1967. Photo: Panos Davios ©ATOPOS collection, Athens

above: Sarah Caplan, Twin Towers, poster dress, USA 1999. Photo: Panos Davios ©ATOPOS collection, Athens

above: James Sterling, Paper Fashion Ltd., Robert Kennedy Electoral Campaign, paper dress, USA 1968, Photo: Panos Davios ©ATOPOS collection, Athens

above: Harry Gordon, Poster Dresses Packaging, USA 1967/68, Photo: Panos Davios ©ATOPOS collection, Athens

above: Marcus Tomlinson, Stills from the film „Pen to Paper“, UK 2003. ©Marcus Tomlinson

above: Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, Tintin, from the collection “hommage à la presse”, FR 1983, Tyvek, hand-painted. ©ATOPOS Cultural Organization

above: Diane Steverlynck, Cardboard covering, BE 2001–07, worn cardboard boxes, 142 x 185 cm. ©Diane Steverlynck

above: Hiroaki Ohya, Wizard of Jeanz, JP 2001, paper dress, printed nylon, cotton, polyester, polyurethane, cardboard. Collection Musée d’Art Moderne Grand-Duc Jean, Mudam Luxembourg, Photo: Rémi Villaggi

above: Ida Gut, mantō, CH 1998, paper coat, different layers of paper and fleece paper glued together. Photo ©Urs Wyss

above: Miyake Inc., Pleats Dress, JP 2007, paper trial, research process. Donation to ATOPOS Cultural Organization, Athens, Photo: ©Yiorgos Mavropoulos

above: Martin Margiela, Fox stole, BE 2008, Spring/Summer 2008, “Artisanal” collection, party paper balls. Lender: Maison Martin Margiela, Photo: Collection “Artisanal” PE08 ©Marina Faust

above: Sandra Backlund, Top, Spring/Summer collection 2010, SE 2010, Origami paper. Photo ©Peter Gehrke

above: Sandra Backlund, Top Ink Blot Test, SE, 2007–08, Origami paper. Photo ©Peter Farago

above: Michael Cepress, Collars for the Modern Gentleman, USA 2006, commissioned by ATOPOS, created using the “Yellow Pages”. Photo: Michelle Moore ©ATOPOS collection, Athens

above: Stephan Hann, Comic Fan, DE 2008, gefertigt aus amerikanischen Comics der 1970 er Jahre, Photo: Itai Margula ©Stephan Hann

above: Museum Bellerive, Pap(i)er Fashion, exhibition view. Photo: Betty Fleck, Studio Publikation, Zürcher Hochschule der Künste ©ZHdK

The Pap(i)er Fashion exhibit runs through August 30, 2010

Museum Bellerive
Höschgasse 3
CH - 8008 Zürich
T: 0041 (0)43 4464-469
F: 0041 (0)43 4464-503

The exhibition was created in co-operation with the ATOPOS Cultural Organization, Athens.

YSL Retrospective At The Petit Palais - And A Mini One Here.

above portrait by Jeanloup Sieff, 1972.

A retrospective of fashion legend Yves Saint Laurent opened yesterday at the Petit Palais in Paris, only two years after his death in 2008.

The impressive retrospective covers 15 chapters of his career, its critical acclaim and occasional failures, including his 1971 forties-inspired "scandal collection", which was pummeled by critics at the time.

above photos © Fondation Pierre Bergé - Yves Saint Laurent

The exhibit begins with his early work for Christian Dior and continues through to his last final collection, in 2002. In total, there are 307 pieces of couture and ready-to-wear fashions accompanied by films, artwork and photos.

above: Yves Saint Laurent in his Dior studio

above: Yves Saint Laurent in his own studio, 1986

Designs for Catherine Deneuve in the 1967 movie Belle de Jour, Lauren Bacall, and the Duchess Of Windsor are included as well as creations that were inspired by art, far away places (he is said to have used his imagination and preferred that to travel) and the glamour of Hollywood.

Okay, so it's not as impressive as the actual show, but here's a little retrospective I put together for you (in case you can't get to the Petit Palais) of many of the key pieces from his numerous and varied collections, in chronological order, along with some art and photos from the exhibit:

1958 (for Dior):

1958 and 1960 (for Dior):

1962:

1965 (the famous Mondrian dress and a tribal inspired Raffia dress) :

1966 (this was for the YSL Rive Gauche Collection):

1967 (for Catherine Deneuve in Belle De Jour, for which he designed all her outfits):

Miss Deneuve with the designer:

1967 and 1968:

1968 and 1969 (for the Duchess of Windsor):

1969 and 1970:

1971 ( aka "the Scandal Collection"):

1971 (for Jane Birkin) and 1973 (for Lauren Bacall)

1976:

1977 and 1986:

1981 and 1982:

1990:

1992 and 1997:

2001:

2002 (his final collection):

His Love series of artwork, which he began in 1970:

1977:

1985:

above images of fashions and art from yslretrospective.com

An IIHIH tangent: Prunier Caviar has used YSL artwork on their special collection of LOVE caviar tins for many years. Due out this coming October is the one shown below:

There are also many vintage editorial and advertising photos included in the retrospective, such as the ones below.

The following photo of Yves Saint Laurent by Jeanloup Sieff taken in 1971 has become an iconic image of the couturier and is also included in the retrospective.