Mary Katrantzou's Wild 2014 F/W Collection Is A Big Departure for The Greek Designer.

When I first introduced you to fashion designer Mary Katrantzou in 2008 - 2009, she had barely broken into the fashion world. At that time her clothes had printed textiles which emulated chunky jewelry and perfume bottles and were accompanied by jewelry of her own design:


In 2011 I showed you that Mary's work had progressed to combine her digitally printed textiles with lots of embellishments and structured shapes inspired by home decor. Again, her own chunky jewelry was incorporated in to the collection:


As time passed, Mary simplified her designs in terms of silhouettes and materials, but mainly stayed with the photographic textiles as recently as her 2014 Spring/ Summer Collection. You will notice her jewelry designs seem to have disappeared from her work:


Mary is currently best known for her bright figure hugging dresses with digitally printed landscapes, like those shown below:


Now, considered one of the top designers in fashion, her work has continued to evolve.

Mary Katrantzou Fall/Winter 2014 Collection:



In a big change from her usual digitally printed textiles, the 2014 Fall/Winter collection from Mary Katrantzou is a very tactile, highly embellished and unique collection. The silhouettes are a big departure from her previous collections, fabrics are varied and mixed (even patches are woven together to create a textile) and the imagery shifts from photographic and cheerful to a darker, more serious, three dimensional style. Pleats, asymmetry, applique patches and metal hardware embellishes the collection.



Here's a look at a few of the more unusual pieces from the collection which debuted this week in London:













Mary Katrantzou

Angela Nocentini Creates Couture Made With Magis Adhesive Tape.

Angela Nocentini, a sculpture teacher at the Academy of Fine Arts in Florence, is known for her fashions made with recycled trash and waste to emphasize her environmental concerns. To illustrate the use of tape as a reusable resource, she collaborated with eco-conscious Italian adhesive tape company Magis S.p.A. (not to be confused with Magis Design) to create these fashions using their products.


















At Magis the respect of the environment has always been one of their main concerns and they have been investing in new technologies with low environmental impact and in the use of renewable energies.

In their production they use highly recyclable materials such as polypropylene, paper, cartons and solvent-free adhesives as hot melt and acrylic water based emulsions.



About Magis
Magis, founded in 1983, was one of the first companies in coating polypropylene film with Hot Melt glue and to experiment with a form of printing called Sandwich, protected between the film and the adhesive. Thanks to these innovations, Magis has shortly become one of the leading companies in Italy, and soon after in the European and International market.

Magis is located in Cerreto Guidi on a production plant of more than 28.000 sqm.Thanks also to numerous investments, new machines and skilled personnel, Magis is able to guarantee the highest flexibility to all its customers and the best quality of the products. Nowadays Magis is one of the leading companies producing customized packaging materials and is ISO 9001:2008 certified.

original images courtesy of Magis, but have been highly altered in color, contrast and cropping by If It's Hip, It's Here

Flat Shoes, Funnel Necks and Fanny Packs? A Look At Chanel's 2014 Haute Couture Collection.

It was a bold move by Karl Lagerfeld and CHANEL to put all their runway models in flat tennis shoes for their 2014 Spring Summer Haute Couture show, but it was a bad move.



Attempting to play up the 'sporty' aspect of the largely sparkly haute couture collection for Spring/Summer 2014, many of the models look like those dreadful commuter women who carry their heels in a bag while they take public transportation to work.



And, you know that if a 5'10" stick skinny model on the runway looks dumpy, any other woman who attempts to wear it will look god-awful.

To top it off, the sneakers are ugly (lace or sequin covered with gossamer shoelaces) and not unlike what you see overweight sweat-suit clad mothers wearing in Palm Springs.

Some of the sneakers on the runway:


I've never been a fan of funnel necks and fanny packs and this collection was full of them.

Funnel necks and flats:



That said, many of the pieces in the large collection are beautiful - especially the floor length gowns- and all have the expert craftmanship expected of CHANEL. Mixing textures and patterns, the collection includes everything from structured dresses and rompers to harem pants and glittering sheer suits.

Some of the beautiful gowns:




In terms of the styling, the models sported hair pieces and crystals applied under their eyes, both of which were interesting:


But I had a lot of trouble getting beyond the fanny packs, knee pads and elbow pads on some of the models (I've already bagged on the ugly shoes). I don't care if it's CHANEL, it's a friggen fanny pack, for god's sake. And unless you are going down on a Rap artist or taking part in a luxury roller derby, no one should wear embellished elbow and knee pads.

Fanny packs with matching elbow and knee pads:





And this? WTF is this?:


I like the large emphasis on the waist in many of the silhouettes and the take on their classic CHANEL jacket in this collection. But, given how much I usually admire CHANEL couture, the unflattering bubble skirts, old-lady sneakers and silly accessories ruined the collection -which does have some amazing pieces in it - for me.

Take a look and decide for yourself.

The Entire Collection:






















Close-up images of some of the prettiest and ugliest details:








A video of the entire runway show:


CHANEL