If It's Hip, It's Here (Archives): unusual fabric

The Pap(i)er Fashion Exhibition at the Museum Bellerive takes us through the fascinating history of paper clothes, beginning with the Swinging Sixties in America and, as the trend spread later, to Europe. The paper fashions reflected what was happening in art, politics and culture at the time; Pop Art and Op Art, Company logos, newspaper prints, and even the electoral candidates of 1968.

above: Ηarry Gordon, The Cat and The Rose, poster dresses, USA 1968. Photo: Panos Davios © ATOPOS collection

above: Baby Ruth and Butterfinger dresses, by MARS Manufacturing Company. © ATOPOS collection

above: Nixon, Eugene McCarthy, Romney, and Robert Kennedy election dresses in the exhibit. Photo by Betty Fleck, Studio Publikation, Zürcher Hochschule der Künste © ZHdK

The exhibit educates us on the approaches to using raw materials and textiles, garment manufacturing know-how, and the use of particularly innovative non-woven materials as well as paper-like materials.

Above left: Gouache on Yellow Pages Dress’ (USA, 1968) by Howard Hodgkin, 2010, for ATOPOS Cultural Organization, © the artist. Above right:"LET'S GO" A PAPER DRESS. Published by Lincoln Mercury (FORD MOTORS). © USA, 1969. ATOPOS Collection, Athens

Paper, which was invented in China in approximately 100 A.D., has been used to manufacture garments and accessories in various cultures in the past and also in many modern creations. The exhibition examines the use of paper in contemporary fashion practices through design, art, advertising, video, catwalk shows and the actual creations of some of the most innovative designers of our times including Paco Rabanne, Issey Miyake, Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld, Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, Akris.

Above: Paper floral headpieces created by Katsuya Kamo for Karl Lagerfeld's CHANEL Haute Couture S/S 2009 Collection, photos © CHANEL

Pap(i)er Fashion at Museum Bellerive, April 30 – August 1st 2010
pieces from the exhibit:

above: Harry Gordon, Uptown New York, poster dress, UK/USA 2007, poem by Allen Ginsberg, first edition. Photo: Panos Davios ©ATOPOS collection, Athens

above: Robert Wilson, Lisa, USA 2007, commissioned by ATOPOS. ©Robert Wilson and The Byrd Hoffman Watermill Foundation 2007, ATOPOS collection, Athens

above: Campbell’s Soup Company, The Souper Dress, after Warhol, USA 1968, launched for the promotion “Vegetable Soup”. Photo: Panos Davios ©ATOPOS collection, Athens

above: Universal Fashions, The Big Ones for 68, paper dress, USA 1968, Promotion paper dress with portraits of the Studios popular stars. Photo: Panos Davios ©ATOPOS collection, Athens

above: Harry Gordon, The Eye, poster dress, USA 1968. Photo: Panos Davios ©ATOPOS collection, Athens

above: Bob Dylan, Poster Dress, USA 1967. Photo: Panos Davios ©ATOPOS collection, Athens

above: Sarah Caplan, Twin Towers, poster dress, USA 1999. Photo: Panos Davios ©ATOPOS collection, Athens

above: James Sterling, Paper Fashion Ltd., Robert Kennedy Electoral Campaign, paper dress, USA 1968, Photo: Panos Davios ©ATOPOS collection, Athens

above: Harry Gordon, Poster Dresses Packaging, USA 1967/68, Photo: Panos Davios ©ATOPOS collection, Athens

above: Marcus Tomlinson, Stills from the film „Pen to Paper“, UK 2003. ©Marcus Tomlinson

above: Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, Tintin, from the collection “hommage à la presse”, FR 1983, Tyvek, hand-painted. ©ATOPOS Cultural Organization

above: Diane Steverlynck, Cardboard covering, BE 2001–07, worn cardboard boxes, 142 x 185 cm. ©Diane Steverlynck

above: Hiroaki Ohya, Wizard of Jeanz, JP 2001, paper dress, printed nylon, cotton, polyester, polyurethane, cardboard. Collection Musée d’Art Moderne Grand-Duc Jean, Mudam Luxembourg, Photo: Rémi Villaggi

above: Ida Gut, mantō, CH 1998, paper coat, different layers of paper and fleece paper glued together. Photo ©Urs Wyss

above: Miyake Inc., Pleats Dress, JP 2007, paper trial, research process. Donation to ATOPOS Cultural Organization, Athens, Photo: ©Yiorgos Mavropoulos

above: Martin Margiela, Fox stole, BE 2008, Spring/Summer 2008, “Artisanal” collection, party paper balls. Lender: Maison Martin Margiela, Photo: Collection “Artisanal” PE08 ©Marina Faust

above: Sandra Backlund, Top, Spring/Summer collection 2010, SE 2010, Origami paper. Photo ©Peter Gehrke

above: Sandra Backlund, Top Ink Blot Test, SE, 2007–08, Origami paper. Photo ©Peter Farago

above: Michael Cepress, Collars for the Modern Gentleman, USA 2006, commissioned by ATOPOS, created using the “Yellow Pages”. Photo: Michelle Moore ©ATOPOS collection, Athens

above: Stephan Hann, Comic Fan, DE 2008, gefertigt aus amerikanischen Comics der 1970 er Jahre, Photo: Itai Margula ©Stephan Hann

above: Museum Bellerive, Pap(i)er Fashion, exhibition view. Photo: Betty Fleck, Studio Publikation, Zürcher Hochschule der Künste ©ZHdK

The Pap(i)er Fashion exhibit runs through August 30, 2010

Museum Bellerive
Höschgasse 3
CH - 8008 Zürich
T: 0041 (0)43 4464-469
F: 0041 (0)43 4464-503

The exhibition was created in co-operation with the ATOPOS Cultural Organization, Athens.

Above: Arne Jacobsen's classic Egg chair given new life with the "Peony" leather fabric.

Above: detail of "Peony" design

Helen Amy Murray is internationally recognized for hand-crafted, luxury creations inspired by nature and form, to create 3D surfaces within textiles.

above: 'Bird and Blossom', one of her newest designs

Helen won the Oxo-Peugeot Prize in 2004 for her innovative designs. She develops bespoke commissions using luxury materials for applications ranging from interior products, upholstery, wall coverings and art.

Below are some of her previous projects, done for personal and commissioned clients.
She certainly knows how to bring life back into an old wing chair or tub chair! Take a look at these stunning pieces:

Above: Wing chairs enhanced with the Bloom Pattern

Above: detail of "bloom" on wing chairs

Above: an otherwise boring tub chair is reinvigorated with "Bloom"

Above: Detail of "bloom" on a tub chair

Above: A traditional Edwardian armchair upholstered in "Rose"

Here are some of her wonderful patterns, both her newest collection and some of her classics.
These, along with more, were unveiled at the 100% Futures section of the 100% Design show: